Last Words and Lasting Impressions

SUNDAY, JULY 18

As our solidarity journey in Cambodia has now come to an end, we close this blog with a few final words from each person in the group. We thank each and every one of our readers for following us on this journey and may you keep us in your thoughts and prayers as we begin a new journey: that of sharing what we learned in Cambodia within our communities throughout Saskatchewan.

My most dominant impression of Cambodia is the people; their endurance, kindness and their hope will always stay with me. The incredible ancient temples with their awesome carvings which have stood the test of time is my second. I am grateful to have been on this trip and know I will never look at many things the same way. [Linda]

In reflecting on all of the people I have met and learned from during the past two weeks, I am inspired by the strength, knowledge, and perseverance of D&P's partners in Cambodia. Their dedication to development in Cambodia gives me a renewed sense of commitment to my own advocacy and fund raising work with D&P in Canada. [Kathy]

I am so grateful for the people I have met and the stories they have shared. I have witnessed hope in those who are finding their voice thanks to their own motivation and to D&P's partners' solidarity with them. [Reanne]

The heroic and difficult work that Church and NGO's have been doing in Cambodia has given me much food for thought. I am grateful for Armella and Development and Peace's commitment and competence, without which this solidarity trip would not have been possible. [Bert]

Rice fields, oxen, rutted red roads and a basket of piglets on a bicycle. As I begin to process the multiple images in my mind after this solidarity trip, I am inspired by the warmth, generosity and courage of the people our group has met along the way. Despite the poverty that can overwhelm a visitor to the Global South, the energy and positive spirit of the children and youth in Cambodia fills me with great hope for the future. [Robin]

I have many visual memories of rural Cambodia, where D&P has put its main focus for integral development. It was a joy to experience Cambodia through people engaged in social change, within the natural beauty of the countryside. [Armella]

Eve of Leaving

FRIDAY, JULY 16

We made the trek back to Phnom Penh from Ban Lung today; the almost 600 kms of feasting our eyes on the sights of Cambodia.

During our time here, we have had various responsibilities. Reanne, for example, has been filing all our pictures. (No small task!) She was working on them with the laptop during our trip this afternoon. Some of us were looking over her shoulder, and recalling the names of the people and communities in the photos.

When I saw the face of a staff person from one of D&P’s partners that we met on the very first morning of our very first day out in the communities, I had two reactions. First, I had a sensation of seeing a picture from the distant past. These past 16 days have been chalk-full of learning, with so many new experiences that 2 weeks ago seems like 2 months ago.

My second reaction was one of happiness for having met that person as well as many other strong Cambodian community leaders. On a solidarity trip like this, we are privileged to meet so many dedicated, altruistic people in a very short space of time.

This evening, on the eve of our leaving, we had one last meeting in order to summarize our Cambodia experience. We met with development personnel: Sambath Mam, executive director of DPA (Development and Partnership in Action), and Bunchhoeuth Keng, country director of CORD and Dennis McMahon, Senior Capacity Development Advisor for CORD. My reactions from the photos I saw earlier in the day brought clarity to the closing comments this evening, with yet more fine people.

by Armella Sonntag

Leaving Cambodia

THURSDAY, JULY 15

The sun rose early as we jiggled along red dirt roads on our way to Teun community and our final work day in Cambodia. As we stepped out of the van, our host Mr. Khieu Sopheak from Development and Partnerships in Action (DPA) warned me to step over a long trail of biting ants before entering a traditional bamboo meeting house. Inside, dozens of young men were learning how to position cement poles in the forests as a border to protect their lands threatened by illegal logging. Land security is an important issue in this eastern region of Cambodia where forests are being clear-cut by foreign companies to make money for the lucrative rubber tree market. The community we visited had already lost more than half of their land to these activities.

Other stops today included a visit to a pesticide-free rice farm, a rice cooperative business meeting, a literacy class, and a fish pond model farming project. Personally, my favourite experience of the day was arriving in Ta Ang village as the air echoed with the rich, deep tones of gongs, like church bells chiming in the tropical air. Entering the darkened cultural centre, we saw a small group of musicians playing heavy iron instruments suspended by ropes from the ceiling. The village chief spoke in Kroeung, the language of the Indigenous people in this village, which was first translated to Khmer and then English. An elder showed us the textiles, tools and traditional ways of the Kroeung people while dozens of young children peered in the windows and doors, watching and listening. We were told of a plan to find a grant to teach local children their own traditional dances. I thought about land, empowerment, community decision-making and solidarity, and the importance of keeping alive traditional languages and a sense of identity. I feel great hope for Cambodia.

by Robin Adeney

Solidarity in for a Rough Ride

WEDNESDAY, JULY 14

Today I am captured by reflections on empowerment and solidarity. Gospel readings of the last two days (July 13, 14) develop Matthew's understanding of empowerment, which will connect with how he sees community forming.

Different NGOs working in the province of Ratanakiri also have empowerment and solidarity in mind; human values-based programs are striving to give voice to women and Indigenous groups, especially in matters of preserving culture and controlling their land, as mining companies from China, Vietnam, Korea, and Australia seek to wrestle gold, iron, gemstone and bauxite from thick lush forests. No Buddha for these Indigenous people; they have the realm of spirits connected to the natural world which has been such a vital part of their existence.

But NGO processes are awakening effective power for solidarity for these vulnerable ones. As I studied the faces of the 8 Indigenous trainers across the table, I thought I recognized the look on the faces of the disciples of Jesus, in the beginning before they saw where all their empowerment would lead them.

How will negotiations go with the Cambodian government and mining companies? It is unlikely that “hearts will be moved with pity” for the plight of these land people. More likely, when push comes to shove, and when villagers reject the paltry 1 or 2 hundred dollars per hectare that they are offered, empowerment and solidarity may be swept aside by... well, what is it going to take?

The NGO brand of empowerment and solidarity should not go for nothing. Yet, if good will and reason are met with hearts not fully opened and muscle ready for flexing, there will be no small price to pay by these villagers living in the hidden forests.

by Bert Pitzel

On the Road Again

TUESDAY, JULY 13th

Oh how I love road trips; and today was no exception! We were on the road by 7am to beat Phnom Penh morning rush hour. Our destination was Ban Lung (population 25 000), in the province of Ratanakiri, a mere 588km northeast of Phnom Penh. Our travels brought us through rubber and cashew plantations and potatoe, corn and rice fields. In some places the lush and diverse vegetation formed a canopy of vines that shaded the road. Water buffalo and cows scattered the countryside and occasionally the road. The outline of mountains in the distance met cumulus clouds at the horizon. One way bridges connected the red earth shores of the murky Tonle San river. What beautiful country!

Ratanakiri's national park and landscape are becoming more popular for adventure tourists while its natural resources are attractive to “development companies.” Highway 7 north, once less travelled, is now wide and well groomed. I can't help but imagine/assume/predict that the recent major road construction is for mining equipment and tourism rather than for local indigenous communities. Tomorrow we'll meet with one of our partners, Indigenous Communities Support Organization (ICSO) who, I'm sure, will enlighten me on this topic.

You may be surprised to learn that we are quite a musical crew, or at least we think we are! We were singing slightly flat four part harmony with ukulele accompaniment during our nine hour travel day. Our poor driver Narin is such a patient man!

by Reanne Lajeunesse

And we're off again...

We are off to Ratanakiri province tomorrow for 3 days... it is supposed to be a beautiful place to visit, but it will take us about 9 hours to drive there. This is just to let our readers know our plans, in case we do not have access to Internet service and thus our blog may not be updated for a few days. But, as usual, stay tuned!

A Day with YRDP

MONDAY, JULY 12

Today provided us with the opportunity to connect with YRDP (Youth Resource Development Program) in Phnom Penh. We began our day with them at the YRDP office, but it was not long before we all piled into the van for another road trip... this time to the village of Chromeang Chas, about 65 km from Phnom Penh. (Now, many of you Canadians may be thinking “why that's a mere half-hour of driving”, but not so in Cambodia. Factoring in Phnom Penh early morning traffic, road construction, and pot-holed dirt roads, we arrived at our destination 2 hours later!)

The work that YRDP is doing in Chromeang Chas tells us a different story than any other so far in our Cambodian experience. Before YRDP and its core group of students became involved, this community was plagued by robbery, domestic violence, illegal fishing practices, etc. Thanks to a dedicated group of university students and staff at YRDP (led by Director Cheang Sokha), the village members and the commune council for the area are now working together to address the various social and economic challenges facing them. It is truly a success story.

A few hours later, back at the YRDP office in Phnom Penh, we learned about the many programs that YRDP have on the go, including a Training Unit and a Youth in Action initiative. YRDP certainly has their work cut out for them when it comes to training students through Paolo Freire methodologies and empowering youth to think critically and speak up for transparency of the government in the area of extractive industries. But, after meeting with a small group of these activist students at the office, I'm convinced they are ready and willing to take on the challenge!

YRDP builds confidence in youth by strengthening their critical thinking skills and empowering them to actively participate in building a culture of peace, justice and sustainable development in Cambodia.

by Kathy Nolan

Despair and Hope

SUNDAY, JULY 11

We met Licadho Canada today at their office, and then we travelled to two settlements of people who had been evicted from their land in Phnom Penh. The first settlement consisted of prison-like buildings that were given to the people when 7NG evicted them from their homes. As their homes were destroyed, those who opposed were treated inhumanly. The new settlement was a very sad place, but the children still played and posed to have their pictures taken. One family even prepared a meal for us using the best food available to them.

The second settlement site was even worse than the first. These families lived in make-shift houses: a mixture of boards, straw, and tarps. At first, it was difficult to process that this was real and that these people were living in such destitute conditions. The look of despair was written on the faces of the adults especially. The children, God bless them, still smiled and followed us around as we visited with people in the community. When people were told that we were from D&P, we were greeted with smiles and even hugs. The staff of Licadho Canada, led by Canadian Lee Robinson, are incredible people. The work they do for people facing land evictions is often dangerous, with people being put in prison for their part in the resistance movement.

Both of the communities we met with were part of the Dey Krahorm eviction which took place in January 2009, after a five year battle to save their homes and their land. Hope for these people is in our hands and hearts, in supporting organizations like Licadho. Once again I am left with a good feeling about the work of D&P in helping to be the voice of the voiceless.

These people have touched me and I know that when I leave Cambodia I will not look at so many things in the same way. I have seen both the pride and the despair of the Cambodian people.

by Linda Arsenault

Gracious Hosts

SATURDAY, JULY 10

Soratha (pictured right) was our translator from D&P’s partner, DPA (Development and Partnership in Action) for our time in Kampot. And as you have read previously, Narin (pictured left) is our van driver, who has been accompanying us since the day after our arrival to Cambodia. We’ve been on the receiving end of their very competent work and have enjoyed their pleasant company. Last night and today, we experienced a new level of their personable sensitivity and graciousness.

After a straight run of long days, by nightfall last night we’d begun to feel frayed. Narin and Soratha made adjustments and accommodations to our day today; enabling us to get our second wind. Today’s travel day; from Kampot back to Phnom Penh; from the Gulf of Thailand back to the capital city; was a restful one.

This evening, the six of us gathered to reflect on Sunday’s Gospel. The parable of the Good Samaritan seemed fitting after feeling so kindly cared for by our hosts.

by Armella Sonntag

Cambodian Morning/Afternoon

FRIDAY, JULY 9

Red roads and dust

Palm trees rise like sentinels

Against the distant grey mountains

Kampot

Pepper and salt

Development and Peace

We arrive at Tareach Village

“Juhm ree-uhp sue” we bow hello

Sit on straw mats legs tucked behind us

Women, men, children and babies

We listen hard to hear and understand

Khmer words and English translations

Questions and answers

Stories of an agricultural cooperative

Community organizing

Rice bank, cow bank, pig bank

102 families, 953 people, 420 women

174 hectares

Rice storage

Money for medicines and education

Afternoon Daung Village

Walking on dusty paths beside rice fields

Sky black and the sound of palm tree leaves

Rustling in the wind

Rainy season

A new culvert and possible double rice crop

Corn in the dry season

Rain falls

We wait underneath a family's roof

We drink fresh coconut juice as the heavens open up

Communion

“Awe coon” (thank you) we say to our hosts

We emerge as sun streams through pineapple and palm trees

Hope

Buddha smiles

by Robin Adeney

Floating Villages and Bumpy Roads

THURSDAY, JULY 8

Breakfast, a short drive by van, and then another by boat brought us to the floating villages of Tonle Sap Lake, a lake that swells five fold annually from the waters of the Himalayas. Millions of Cambodians make their living here from fresh water fishing. Everything floats there: the school, medical centre, gas station, even a karaoke bar; all floating securely on their foundations of bamboo logs.

A brief trip to the general store and a return trip by boat preceded our journey to Kampot in a rather rough ride as we made our way through two provinces travelling along highways # 6, 5, 4 and 3. We passed through a number of one-street market towns, places where locals sell their produce and wares. In one such town, a land mine victim with one leg was stretched out in the middle of the street, his hands and eyes raised in prayer. This was a dangerous manoeuvre, but a fitting expression of the desperation of his life and an appeal to drivers to respond to his need.

We passed through a low mountain range where the vegetation, especially the tress, were lush and beautiful. Highway construction, newly constructed railway lines, the salt mine and numerous two wheel tractors with either rubber or steel wheels spoke of Cambodian industry. En route to Kampot, we picked up Soratha, our DPA interpreter for tomorrow. By 9pm, we had finished our supper, a delirious experience of shrimp, crab and ginger chicken, thus bringing to an end our challenging seventeen hour day.

by Bert Pitzel

We are Back!

Apologies to all of our faithful readers for the sudden hiatus from blogging. I guess we should have warned you that we might end up in a hotel without internet access... and that is exactly what happened in Kampot for the last two days. But now we will play catch-up on those days, so stay tuned...

Tourist Day

WEDNESDAY, JULY 7

Nowhere else would I have rather been than in the company of approximately fifty people all quietly watching the sun rise at 5am behind the grand pine cone shaped towers of Angkor Wat. I simply sat and listened to the symphony of sounds and calls from crickets, Myna birds, roosters, geckos and squirrels. This was a truly prayerful time.

Ta, our informative tour guide and friend of Narin, walked us through the temples, each with their unique architecture and history. The infamous Angkor Wat, built in the eleventh century, has a huge statue of Vishnu where the faithful visit to pray and give offerings. Ta Prohm temple, built 100 years prior to Angkor Wat, is famous for the massive trees that have altered the structure of the temple. Amazed by the power of the trees, one of my travel partners commented that nature always has the last laugh, no matter how skillful the workers or crafty the architects. The government is currently working to preserve what is left of Ta Prohm by removing potentially damaging trees and their roots. I was happy to learn that locals are invited to visit the temples free of charge and that some countries donate money for the preservation of the temples.

I was most struck by the many beautiful children and young people who were selling their wares. From postcards and fridge magnets to history DVDs and traditional string instruments, these young entrepreneurs had their English lines perfectly memorized to make a sale to a tourist. One young girl of ten years asked if I would buy postcards from her if she would tell me the name of Canada’s prime minister and capital city. Ta explained that many of these children attend school from 7am until noon so they have the remainder of the day free to sell things to help support their families.

by Reanne Lajeunesse

The pleasure of Leang Dai

TUESDAY, JULY 6

After meeting several Banteay Srei staff at their office in Siem Reap, we load up the van and head out past the temples again, this time enroute to Leang Dai Village. We are going to meet with a rice cooperative group this morning.

Her legs are tucked under as she leans forward over her notebook, glasses slightly crooked on her face. From my perspective glancing across the wooden floor, I can see her writing notes in sanscrit. I wonder what she writes about. Does she wonder the same about me and my notebook? She is one of seven Leang Dai community facilitators.

The morning's discussion is punctuated by a stroll through the village so that we can view pig farms, wells, and newly constructed houses, all made possible as a result of a successful rice cooperative and cow bank program.

She is a member of both the rice cooperative and the cow bank.When we arrive at her house, she is rocking her sleeping child in a hammock, one that is strung between two concrete pillars supporting the house above. We sit under her house to hear her story: she received one cow from the cow bank a few years ago and now, after selling several cows, she has a beautiful new house. She smiles and says she's happy.

The early afternoon heavy rain has us all running for cover, as we wait in Leang Dai village meeting place. After an inspiring discussion with a women's saving group, we hop into the van for our next and final destination of the day: a watermelon farm.

She wears high heels and carries a small beige purse, as she hops into the van. While we have seen her at both village meetings today (and yesterday also), she has spoken infrequently. When she does speak, however, it is with devotion to the people in her village and for all of the work that they are doing to improve their lives. As the van heads down the freshly mudded road, we realize that it is her watermelon farm that we will visit. She is the village chief.

by Kathy Nolan

What a wonderful day!

MONDAY, JULY 5

This morning after breakfast, Banteay Srei met us at our hotel and we traveled to Don Oav village. This was not like a road trip to a village in Saskatchewan; a glance to the right and there was Angkor Wat, catching everyone's attention. The road was narrow and bumpy at times but passed directly by many of the temples that I had been reading about. The elephant terrace, Preah Khan, and the Bayon were all part of the scenery on our drive. There were also small thatched huts that were family homes and these quickly brought us back to reality.

Our morning meeting began with the usual introductions and then our hosts began to speak to us about some of the struggles in their lives. Land rights are a big issue for them and the fact that they do not have title to their land places many restrictions on their lives because they live in the Angkor area, a heritage site.

In the afternoon, on our way to meet with the “women's savings group” in another nearby village, we stopped at a small co-op store. This store, opened just one month ago by the villagers, is where purchases of goods can be made such that the profits stay in the village.

The women’s savings group is a very inspiring group who explained to us how they had set up a community credit union where they could borrow money to start a business, build a home, purchase machinery, etc. Their stories were very inspiring and we learned a lot from them. (One thing I definitely learned was that I could not be Buddhist if it meant sitting (or trying to sit) on a cement floor with my feet curled under me!)

It was a truly wonderful day and left me feeling so proud of the work of Development and Peace. And the temple scenery as backdrop didn't hurt either... I can't wait until Wednesday when we will have a chance to tour them.

by Linda Arsenault

A View of Rural Life from a Van

SUNDAY, JULY 4

As noted in the closing of yesterday’s blog, we travelled to Siem Reap today; 315 km northeast of the Phnom Penh. It was a comfortable day of travel; leaving the capital at 9:00 am and arriving at our destination before 4:00 pm. Although we didn’t have the Tonle Sap Lake in sight, we travelled along the northeast edge of it; until we reached our destination.

It was a feast for the eyes to observe the countryside for our hours of travel in the van. Narin was more than our driver today. He made several stops along the way to offer explanations and opportunities for picture taking.

The rainy season has recently begun, so farmers are out in the fields transplanting rice. They are transplanting the seedling plants into larger water fields, where they will grow to maturity and be harvested in about 6 months.

We stopped for our noon day meal in the town of Kampong Thom. Narin, perhaps appreciating our enthusiasm because of our many cultural and geographical questions, offered us a Cambodian treat of deep-fried crickets. While I cannot tell you firsthand how they taste, one of the more adventurous of our group commented that “they have a taste of their own”.

Getting closer to Siem Reap, as we travelled along, we noticed many poles with plastic sheets attached to them. Narin explained that these were cricket catchers. At night, the plastic sheet is opened across two poles, while a second plastic sheet holds a trough of water. A battery powered light on the back side of the open sheet attracts the crickets. The hapless crickets hit the sheet, fall into the water and are there to be scooped up for selling. There is an international market for crickets, especially in Thailand. Judging by the quantity of cricket catchers that we saw and the cost of deep-fried crickets ($UD 1.00 for 10), this seems to be a significant industry.

We saw an ancient stone bridge in the Chi Kreng district; built before 1200 AD which has outlasted the river. We saw beautiful countryside Wats (Buddhist temples), and rural housing on stilts, pigs being carried on motorcycles, and countless roadside stops for things to eat or drink. The day has been wonderfully full!

by Armella Sonntag

Visiting with Maryknoll and Caritas Cambodia

SATURDAY, JULY 3

Since D&P is Caritas Canada, we had a special interest in visiting Caritas Cambodia. During our visit, Rattana Kim, Executive Director of Caritas Cambodia, described to us the significant progress made in the last twenty years including food security, community health, care for people with HIV/AIDS, service to prisoners, gender promotion, building inclusive communities, emergency response and rights-based advocacy. Caritas Cambodia currently operates in 9 provinces and supports village associations in three hundred villages.

In the afternoon our skilled driver, Narin, wove in and out of a sea of overloaded motorbikes and tuktuks on our way to Maryknoll Cambodia and our meeting with Leonor Montiel. Leonor told us about her work providing prevention and care services for the poorest people living with HIV/AIDS. Leonor works in a mission team of 20 staff- sisters, priests and lay missionaries. Later, she took us to visit a hospice where HIV/AIDS patients are being cared for as well as an area by the Mekong River where ethnic Vietnamese Catholics live.

We ended the day by joining the Maryknoll community for Mass, where we enjoyed the joyous singing of a large international congregation. We learned today that Cambodia is primarily a mix of Buddhist and Hindu faiths with only a small Catholic population. Instead of shaking hands during Mass, people bow according to Cambodian tradition.

Stay tuned for our travel stories as we make our way to Siem Reap tomorrow!

by Robin Adeney

Cambodian Killing Fields

FRIDAY P.M., JULY 2

The sick feeling deep in the pit of my stomach began to subside as we left the killing fields, the stupa and the museum. Our guide, Chum Mey, now almost eighty years old, is one of only seven S21 prison survivors. He spoke hauntingly, emphasizing through animated gestures the harrowing experience almost forty years earlier. “So many stories to tell.” He had lost his wife and child in those “times of Pol Pot and year zero.” His hope now was for justice, one that would be wrought by a hybrid court composed of UN and Cambodian officials. And if not by them, then by the resolution of the Buddhist belief in reincarnation.

What remains with me are those piercing eyes, Chum's and hundreds more staring out from the prison wall photographs of victims taken before they met their death, by axe, gun or battering stick.

by Bert Pitzel

Let the Dialogue Begin!

FRIDAY A.M., JULY 2

Hope for a better future radiated from the many presentations made by representatives from Development and Peace partners this morning. The main purpose of this initial meeting was for D&P partners to introduce themselves and their good work. In addition, our D&P group shared what we do in Canada in regards to creating awareness of justice issues to our parishes and government representatives. (FYI: our presentation included the “bunny hop” dance in which everyone participated... wonder why? Post a comment as to your guess and we'll respond). I was so impressed by the motivation of our D&P partners to continue and improve upon their work with Cambodians. In the weeks to come we will have many more opportunities to dialogue in detail with these dedicated people as we travel throughout Cambodia. May we grow in solidarity.

by Reanne Lajeunesse

Happy Canada Day from Cambodia

THURSDAY, JULY 1

While Canada Day is winding down for us here in Cambodia, many of you in Canada are just beginning the July 1 holiday. We have had an action-packed couple of days, even though we lost several hours of one of those days by crossing the international date line enroute from Vancouver to Hong Kong. While the 12 hours on the plane seemed, at times, to pass very slowly, most of us emerged from the plane in Hong Kong with an enthusiastic vision for the day ahead (not to mention a strong dedication to finding a good coffee shop!).

One Dragon Air flight later and we arrived at our final destination of Phnom Penh. The ride from the airport (in a much appreciated air conditioned van) had everyone mesmerized and mostly speechless as we each took in the sights, sounds, smells, and high humidity of this fabulous capital city of Cambodia.

Several hours later, having now figured out hotel internet connections, where to buy water, where not to use a banking machine, and which dishes are best at the hotel restaurant, we are ready to get a good night's rest before we meet and spend the day with our D&P partners tomorrow. And tomorrow promises to be full of new learning experiences and stories to share... so stay tuned!

by Kathy Nolan